Details on PARQUET installation:
- Sub floor preparation is key if you want to successfully install reclaimed parquet. If the moisture content is high or the surface is uneven, this must be addressed prior to fitting. Parquet blocks can be laid on a level screed or concrete floor (advised tolerance is a maximum of 3 mm across a metre). It can also be laid on a stable sheet floor for example, Caberboard (flooring grade chipboard).
Please note: the adhesives work only with the non-waterproofed sheet material (check with your adhesive supplier for specifications) or you can take a look at our recommended adhesive.
The following bullet points give more details on how to fit your floor:
- Your reclaimed parquet blocks should be acclimatised by stacking them in the room where they are to be laid for at least 2 weeks prior to laying (and preferably longer). Any wet trades should be completed and any plaster, screed etc. properly dry.
- They should be stacked in separate ‘jenga style’ piles in order to allow the air to flow all round the blocks to get an even distribution and good air flow. Use a moisture meter to test levels.
- The blocks will need scraping along the sides and ends in order to fit neatly, and create an even pattern across the floor. If there are any large obvious lumps of screed or bitumen for example, on the base then these will need to be scraped off. Generally we do not recommend removing all of the bitumen off the underside of the blocks because the specialist adhesives available are compatible and will bond to the blocks.
- For all patterns, you will need to establish a central line using a string line which should allow for a block to sit underneath. The central line is where you lay the spine (first course running down the central length of the room).
- At the edge of the room mark out 2 blocks width plus a 12mm expansion gap running parallel with the room, all the way round the edges. This will give you space for your border blocks. This should be a continuous pencil line. The expansion gap must not be filled, it allows for the natural expansion and contraction of timber. And it will be cloaked by the skirting boards.
- It is advisable to lay one half first then go to the second half, remembering not to glue beyond the pencil line for the border. Your pattern will cross over the border line but any part of the block which does, must not be glued (on that part) as it will need to be cut off. Sometimes you need to infill small pieces carefully as these sort of details will show up at the end if not carefully done.
- The finished pattern must be a nice tight fit and do remember as you are laying, large gaps can throw the pattern out. There is generally a tolerance of a couple of millimetres. This can be filled easily using a base-fill product, which is common practice, to give a good finish. However it is very popular now to leave the gaps for a more natural look. The choice is yours.
- Then you start to sand!